Teesside paving FAQs
The questions Teesside homeowners actually ask about paving, answered straight: what it costs per square metre, what should be under the surface, which rules apply to front gardens, and when a repair beats a replacement.
Honest answers on driveways, patios, paths and repairs across Teesside. If your question is not here, get in touch.
Costs & timings
How much does paving cost in Teesside?
Block paving £60 to £100 per square metre laid, slabs and flags £50 to £80, permeable builds £80 to £120, repairs from £150 and edging from £200. Commercial work is quoted per job.
Is the quote really free?
Yes. The area gets measured and looked at, the price comes back in writing with the build described, and you decide in your own time. No charge and no pressure.
How long does a driveway take?
Usually three to five days for a standard front drive: dig out and cart away, base laid and compacted, edgings set, then laying, cutting, jointing and vibrating. Weather and access can stretch it.
Why is one quote so much cheaper than another?
Almost always the build below ground. Ask each contractor for excavation depth, sub-base thickness and whether spoil removal and drainage are included, and the difference usually explains itself.
Rules & drainage
Do I need planning permission for a driveway?
Only if the surface is over five square metres, impermeable, and drains to the road. Permeable paving, or drainage to a lawn, border or soakaway, keeps it within permitted development.
What is a dropped kerb and who arranges it?
The vehicle crossing from road to drive. It is highway work, applied for through your council with a fee and an inspection, and it often takes longer to approve than the paving takes to lay.
Where should water from a new patio go?
Away from the house, on a fall of roughly 1 in 80, into a border, soakaway or drainage channel. The finished surface should sit at least 150mm below the damp proof course.
Does permeable paving work on clay?
Yes, designed as storage and controlled release rather than pure infiltration. The stone layers hold rainfall and let it out slowly, which is the usual approach across Teesside.
The build itself
How deep should the base be?
Commonly 200mm to 250mm of excavation for a driveway with a compacted sub-base to suit, and around 150mm for a patio. Thin bases are the single most common cause of paving failure.
Should slabs be laid on a full mortar bed?
Yes. Spot-bedding on dabs leaves voids that crack under load and hold water. A full bed costs a little more mortar and lasts far longer.
Why does edge restraint matter so much?
Without a haunched edging, the outer courses creep outwards under load, joints open and the whole surface loosens. It is a small part of the cost and most of the lifespan.
What jointing should be used?
Kiln-dried sand vibrated in is standard for block paving; polymeric jointing resists weeds and washout better. Slabs are pointed with a mortar or a gun-applied compound suited to the stone.
Repairs & maintenance
Can old paving be lifted and relaid?
Usually. Where the blocks or slabs are sound and the failure is a settled area, a spread edge or empty joints, relaying costs a fraction of new paving and reuses the original material.
Is pressure washing bad for block paving?
It strips the jointing sand, which loosens the paving and invites weeds. If you do wash it, re-sand and vibrate afterwards, and keep the lance moving rather than gouging the joints.
How do I stop weeds coming through?
Keep the joints full, brush regularly, and use a polymeric jointing sand at the next relay. Weeds grow in what collects on top of paving, not up through a properly built base.
What guarantee should I expect?
A written workmanship guarantee with a stated length, alongside the manufacturer's warranty on the blocks or slabs. Ask for it in writing with the quote rather than after the work.